Bought yourself the components for your PC but not sure how to build it? Here’s a quick guide on how to build your own rig.

Some essentials before we start:

Make sure you have an adequate area to work. For this, I’m talking a clean area with good lighting where you can have each of your components safely stored and accessible. It is also highly recommended that you ground yourself with an anti-static wrist strap, to a (recommended) anti-static mat.  Don’t use carpet: never work with your components on carpet.

Have your tools at hand and ready. For most builds, all you will need is a Phillips #2 screwdriver for almost all the screws unless you have chosen a M.2 drive; for this which you need a Phillips #0. Some optional extras would be cable ties for cable management at the end and scissors to cut these down.

So, the build:

Prepping the work area

First off, we’re going to build the main bulk of the system outside of the chassis to check the system is functioning before complete assembly.

  • Unbox the motherboard and put somewhere where it will be safe from static and workable. If you do not have a mat, a good alternative is to use the bag (which is ESD safe) the motherboard came in and place it on top of the box. This way the box and bag atop will act as insulators to keep the board safe.
Installing the CPU
  • The first component to add will be the CPU. Before we go any further, regardless of whether you chose AMD or Intel, it must be said NEVER touch the pins within the socket or on the CPU, even one pin being bent can be enough to stop your pc from working. I’ll continue this below for both manufactures.

Intel

  • Unhook the latch to the right of the socket and lift the bracket. Again, at this point it is worth mentioning that the pins are unprotected, do not let anything touch them.
  • On the CPU, in the bottom left is a little triangle and in one of the corners of the socket on the motherboard there will be another triangle. When putting the CPU in, these need to be matched up. There are also notches within the socket which will also line up with the CPU.
  • It should sit flush within the socket and not move around; it is time to close the bracket again.
  • When closing the latch, it should go easily with little force. If it does not close easily, double check the CPU is in place. At this point the cover atop the bracket will need to be removed.

AMD

  • Unhook the latch to the left of the socket.
  • On the CPU, in the bottom left is a little triangle and in one of the corners of the socket on the motherboard there will be another triangle. When putting the CPU in, these need to be matched up.
  • Place the CPU into the socket, the pins should slot into the motherboard evenly and the CPU will be flush to the board and not move.
  • Relock the latch top the left of the socket.
Installing the RAM
  • Next up is the RAM. It is worth mentioning here to little any contact to the gold contacts on the DIMMs and should be handled from the side edges. Before installing the RAM check your motherboard’s manual to find which sockets to populate deepening on your configuration.
  • First off, open the clips at either end of the slot (some newer, high end boards may only have one clip)
  • Align the notches on both the RAM DIMM and within the socket on the motherboard. The DIMM should sit in the socket and not rock on the notches
  • Using even force across the DIMM, push the dim into the socket
Installing the Cooler
  • We are now going to install the cooler – this can be done before the RAM if easier. The installation process will be different if you have chosen to use an air cooler or an AIO. Follow the manual supplied with your cooler for its specific installation process.
Power on Test
  • Now, the parts are currently assembled outside of the chassis, before we move the whole system into the chassis, it is smart to test the system, plug in the power supply to the board, just the 24 pin power and the CPU power is needed here. This is a simple check to make sure that PC powers on and POSTs to a display – it would not be fun to fully assemble the system, only for there to be a faulty part.

Now for the full assemble:

Prepping the Chassis
  • Place your chosen chassis on the work bench in front you and part it down to its bare enclosure. This means removing the front panel, side panels, any included fans. The more you take out, the more space you’ll have to work and the easier it will be.
Installing the Motherboard
  • Since the motherboard already has the main components seated, it’s time to put in the chassis. It is worth noting here that if you have opted to use M.2 storage, now would be a good time to install it for ease, follow your motherboard’s manual to help locate the correct PCIe x4 slot and how to install.
  • Before putting the motherboard into the case, check the correct locator lugs are installed. Different form factor motherboards require more or less screws so makes sure you check the manuals, so you know where to put them.
  • Before putting the motherboard in, ensure the IO shield is in place within the chassis; some high-end motherboards have the shield built into the motherboard
  • When putting the board in, start with the IO edge, the board will slot in one the IO and lugs are all inline.
  • Using the screws supplied with the motherboard to fix the board in place.
Installing the Radiator (Optional)
  • If you are using an AIO watercooler for the CPU (If not, skip this step), fix your radiator in your case. This will be dependent on the case you have chosen – cases have different radiator support so some planning is needed prior to installation.
Installing the front IO cables
  • Next, while it is still easy to access, is the front panel connectors. This is also dependant on your case, cheaper budget cases may only have USB 2.0 whereas newer, higher cost cases may have USB C, following your motherboard manual, you’ll find the correct connector for these cables. One cable set that the vast majority will have is the Power Button Switch, Power LED, HDD LED, and Reset Switch cables; these can be a pain to install so doing so now while there is ample space is smart.
Installing the GPU
  • For this, you will first need to remove the PCIe covers next to and below the PCIe x16 on your motherboard.
  • The process of installing the GPU is similar to the RAM – you will need to open the latch to the right of the slot, then carefully push the card into the slot. When installing it, much like the motherboard, start with the IO side first and once it is aligned within the PCIe bracket push down with down next to the IO and at the rear of the card.
  • The latch should then click shut the IO of the card should sit flush to the rear of the case. The last thing to do is install the screw on the chassis where you removed the covers to hold the GPU in place.
Installing the Storage
  • The Process of installing the storage is heavily dependent on the case you are building in. Some may have easy access to 3.5” drive bays, some may require you to screw 2.5” drives to the sides of the case. It is recommended as always to check your case manual, as this should inform you of the mounting locations.
  • SATA drives will need to be connected to the motherboard using SATA data cables, attached to the drive at one end and the motherboard at the other.
  • For M.2 storage, these go directly on the motherboard; to install, locate the PCIe3x4 on the board, remove the screw in front of it, and push the card into the slot, then push down at the rear of the card to reinstall the screw.
Installing the PSU and the Power Cables
  • The next task can either be easier or harder depending on the type of power supply you are using
  • Non-modular – all standard ATX form cables are present and unremovable, meaning you’ll likely have unneeded and excess cables,
  • Semi-modular – the 24-pin motherboard is permanently fitted, sometimes along with either the 8-pin CPU power; the PCIe power cable or by itself,
  • Full Modular – the easiest for cable management, all cables are removable so there is no unnecessary, excess cable to play with.
  • The PSU installation much like everything else is dependent on the case that has been chosen. Some may screw the PSU directly to the chassis where others may use a PSU mounting bracket, as always, the manual is the place to look.
  • PSU in the place, now its time to route the cables. It’s worth noting that being mindful of the route they take will make cable management easier (Why does cable management matter? Obtrusive or messy cables can interfere with airflow or with the various fans if not done right which will result in higher system temperatures).
  • The large (20+4)-pin motherboard cable will go to the 24-pin connector on the motherboard – typically on the right-hand side
  • The (4+4)-pin CPU power cable will plug into the CPU power, typically in the top left. Depending on your CPU, you may only need 1 of the 4 pins, but higher performance chips will need both cables plugged in.
  • Next is the PCIe or GPU power cables, like the CPU, the cables needed for it depend on its power and performance. Typical cables are (6+2)-pins but can also be two (6+2)-pin connectors daisy chained in one cable. High end GPUs will typically require both 8-pin connectors for power.
  • Finally, is the SATA power. These need to be attached to any 2.5” or 3.5” drives in your chassis. One cable will normally have four SATA connectors, so drives can be powered with one cable easily.
  • An extra note here: if you have opted for additional hardware such as fan or RGB controllers, these can often be powered by SATA power or a 4-pin Molex connector, which may mean more cables to manage.
Cable Management
  • Now I can’t exactly tell you how to correctly or incorrectly manage your cables as different cases are easier or harder; more expensive cases will have dedicated routing to help cable management or ways to hide cables where cheaper ones may not. Instead I shall offer some hints and advice.
  • Try to hide excess cables wherever possible, most cases will have slight indents around the edges perfect for hiding small cables. With this in mind, also try to keep as much of the excess cables behind the motherboard tray and not within the main chamber.
  • Make sure that no cables interfere with the fans – what I mean by that is keep the fins clear as cables that are on the fan may cause them to slow down or cause potential damage.
  • The aim of the game here is to keep the system as clean and organised as possible to maximise air flow however it is completely your choice how far you take this. You could spend hours making it perfect or say you have a chassis with no windows? You could just leave the cables looking ugly but makes sure that airflow is not left behind.

Hopefully, this has given you some insight into the process need to build your own Gaming PC. Good luck and have fun with it. This will be your creation so do with it what you want and get out there.

Posted by Tom Knott (Tekeurope)